When fly fishing, using two flies at once boosts your odds of hooking into a wide range of fish species—everything from carp and smallmouth bass to trout and even a variety of saltwater fish. A specific, highly effective two-fly rig is called: the "dry-dropper."
Simply put, a dry-dropper rig is a floating fly (the "dry") and a sinking fly (the "dropper") tied onto your leader. These two flies attract fish that may be feeding on or below the surface of the water. To help visualize how this rig works, think about the floating fly as your "bobber with a hook" and the sinking fly as your lure or bait under the water. If you see the floating fly go down, that's telling you there is a fish on the line. Or, a fish might swim up and eat the fly on the surface. Here are some common situations for when you might consider using a dry-dropper rig:
Ponds, Streams, Rivers, Shorelines: The versatility of a dry-dropper rig allows you to fish in many different bodies of water, from ponds and small waterways (streams, ditches, creeks, etc.) to larger waterways and along shorelines. When fish could be feeding at different depths of water, but it’s unclear whether they’re feeding near the surface or down deeper, a dry-dropper rig provides a built-in backup plan. The dry fly serves as both an attractor and an indicator (bobber), while the dropper explores just below the surface. This approach works well when water depth varies—such as fishing where shallow water drops-off into deeper water, along a shoreline where the current/tide is broken due to changes in depth, or around pieces of structure (bridge piers, riprap, log jams, etc.).
Searching for Opportunistic Fish: When targeting active, opportunistic fish, a dry-dropper setup helps cover both fish feeding on the surface and those holding just below. This is especially useful when exploring new water, where fish could be cruising, ambushing prey near structure, or hovering just below broken surface water or along seams where fast and slower moving water meet. The dry fly serves as a natural target for fish watching the surface, while the dropper imitates a vulnerable meal drifting below.
Drifting Through Complex Currents: When dealing with intersecting currents, submerged structures, or uneven bottom contours, a dry-dropper rig allows for a better presentation of the flies. The dry fly rides along with the flow, while the dropper follows, gently suspended in the water column.
The other great thing about a dry-dropper rig is that it can be made out of an endless combination of flies, some of which you might already have on hand:
A bass or panfish popper for the dry and a weighted or unweighted small streamer (like a Woolly Bugger) as the dropper.
A large grasshopper fly pattern (or other large dry fly like a Chubby Chernobyl) and a weighted nymph.
A foam fly mimicking a piece of floating bread or mulberry, and a slowly sinking egg pattern beneath.
With so many different fly pattern options to choose from, anglers have come up with different names for this two-fly rig: popper-dropper, hopper-dropper, etc. For the sake of simplicity, I’ll only refer to it as a “dry-dropper.” In this article, we'll cover:
Choosing a leader when creating a dry-dropper rig.
Three ways to set up a dry-dropper rig on your leader.
Advice on choosing fly patterns.
Casting tips to help avoid tangles.
Dry-Dropper Rig: Selecting a Fly Fishing Leader
First, let's start with what leader to use when fly fishing with a dry-dropper rig (the leader is the clear line between your fly line and fly). The leader is what we'll use to attach the floating "dry" fly.
Most leaders you can buy at a fly shop work great. Here are a few recommendations to think about when buying a package of leaders for the purpose of setting up a dry-dropper rig:
Nylon and fluorocarbon leaders both work.
Use a leader that is at least 7.5 feet long to provide space between the fly line and floating fly.
Leaders over 12 feet will be more difficult to cast a dry-dropper rig, but completely doable with practice.
Recommended diameter for tippet section is 0X to 5X (i.e., .011 to .006 inches in diameter). The diameter will based on the floating fly you plan to use.
If you're looking for an "all-around" option, buy a 9-foot, 2X leader (if you want to save some money, don't buy fluorocarbon leaders, buy cheaper nylon or copolymer/multipolymer leaders).
(If you want to learn more about leaders, including how to build your own, and advance your fly fishing skills to become a more self-reliant angler, check out this other article: How to Build Your Own Leaders for Fly Fishing)
Here are a few other tips when selecting a leader:
If you a struggling to cast a larger floating fly, it might be because the leader and/or fly line doesn't have enough mass. You might have to switch to a smaller fly or swap to a shorter leader and/or a leader with a thicker (larger diameter) tippet section. For example, if you are trying to cast a size 8 or 10 popper on a 9-foot 4X leader, switch to a 9- or 7.5-foot 0X or 1X leader.
Casting dry-dropper rigs works best with floating fly lines that are 4-weight and heavier (i.e., 4-, 5-, 6-, 7-weight, etc.). That's not to say you can't cast a dry-dropper rig on a 2- or 3-weight, you'll just have to downsize the flies you are using.
If you are fishing in a spot with limited casting room, like under a small bridge or amongst dense trees and bushes, use a leader 9 feet or shorter. It is possible to use longer leaders in such scenarios, you'll just want to work on perfecting your roll cast (more on casting tips at the end of this article).
In clear, calm water where the fish are feeding in shallow areas, you may need to switch to a leader longer than 9 feet to avoid spooking fish when the flies land on the water.
When using a store-bought, packaged leader, there is no need to cut the tippet section off of the leader. As you'll see below, we'll build the dry-dropper rig using a leader straight out of the package.
Dry-Dropper Rig: Selecting Monofilament for the Dropper
Now that you have a leader selected, next is choosing a spool of monofilament (i.e., clear, plastic line) that you'll use to attach the "dropper" to the leader. At most tackle and fly shops, you can buy small spools of monofilament and these are typically labeled "tippet spools." When you purchase a spool of monofilament, all of the line on that spool is the same, level diameter. In other words, if you look at a spool of monofilament and it says .011" (eleven-one-thousands of an inch) all of the line on that spool is the same diameter; it does not get thicker or thinner. Most small spools of monofilament are in the range of $5 to $10.
Here are my recommendations for selecting a spool of monofilament:
Choose a spool of monofilament that has a smaller diameter and weaker break-strength than the tippet section of your leader.
For example, let's say you bought a leader and on the package it says "9 feet 2X, 9.8LB." In other words, the diameter of the tippet section is 2X (.009 inches) and has a break-strength of 9.8 pounds. So, for this example, you'd want to buy a spool of monofilament that is thinner (like 3 or 4X) and weaker (breaks at less than 9.8 pounds).
Going by this method helps ensure that if the dropper gets snagged, only it will break off and you won't lose your dry fly as well.
Choosing smaller (thinner) diameter monofilament allows the dropper to sink easier in the water, and stay deeper in moving water.
For example, a weighted nymph tied onto 5X monofilament will sink more easily and quickly than the same weighted nymph tied onto 3X.
Ok, we have our leader and spool of monofilament, and it's time to see three ways we can rig up a dry-dropper (we'll talk about fly pattern considerations in a minute).
Dry-Dropper Rig #1: Tied Off the Bend of the Dry Fly Hook
This is the quickest way to get a dry-dropper set up. All you need to do is:
Tie a dry fly onto the end of your leader (in the illustration below we're using a popper).
From the spool of monofilament, pull and clip off a section of it (something like 12, 24 or 36 inches). How much you clip off depends on the depth of the water you are fishing and where in the water column you suspect the fish to be feeding (i.e., you think the fish are feeding close to the bottom, up near the surface, or somewhere in-between).
Tie the strand of monofilament onto the bend of the dry fly hook using a clinch knot, Orvis knot, or some other knot you prefer.
Tie the dropper fly onto the end of the piece of monofilament hanging from the dry fly using using a clinch knot, Orvis knot, or some other knot you prefer.
This rig is great due to its simplicity, and adding or removing the dropper can be done easily which allows you to swap between using a single dry fly and a dry-dropper rig.
Now, there are some downsides to tying off the bend of the dry fly hook. The first is that the dry fly hook should be a barbed hook, or at least be a hook that has the barb pinched down. For hooks without a barb, the monofilament the dropper is attached tends to slip off the hook. Another issue is when you want to change the dry fly out, but keep the dropper, you still have to clip off and re-tie the dropper to the new dry fly. Lastly, the monofilament leading to the dropper also impede fish from eating the dry fly at times; when a fish opens its mouth to eat the dry, it could push on both the leader and the monofilament pushing the dry fly away.
Dry-Dropper Rig #2: Tied Through the Eye of the Dry Fly Hook
The second dry-dropper rig is very similar to the first, the only difference is that the monofilament for the dropper is tied through the eye of the dry fly hook:
Tie a dry fly onto the end of your leader.
From the spool of monofilament, pull and clip off a section of it (something like 12, 24 or 36 inches). How much you clip off depends on the depth of the water you are fishing and where in the water column you suspect the fish to be feeding (i.e., you think the fish are feeding close to the bottom, up near the surface, or somewhere in-between).
Tie the strand of monofilament through the eye of the dry fly hook using a clinch knot, Orvis knot, or some other knot you prefer.
Tie the dropper fly onto the end of the piece of monofilament hanging off the dry fly using using a clinch knot, Orvis knot, or some other knot you prefer.
The obvious benefit with option #2 is not having to worry about the monofilament (leading to dropper) sliding off the dry fly hook like it might in option #1. That is why I prefer to use this rig with barbless hooks since I know that the dropper will still be there cast after cast. Additionally, since the monofilament (leading to dropper) is tied to the eye of the dry fly hook, there isn't as much concern with it getting in the way of fish that are trying to bite down on the dry fly.
A downside to this option is trying to tie two strands through the eye of the dry fly hook, and it's especially difficult with smaller dry flies. Another downside is that, again, you will have to cut the dropper off if you want to tie on a different dry fly.
Dry-Dropper Rig #3: Using a Triple Surgeon's Knot
Here is a third option to rig up a dry-dropper. While this option might is a little more complicated to set up, there a some great advantages compared to the first two rigs. This rigging method is also not limited to just dry-droppers—it is highly effective for when you want to use any two flies on your leader like, two streamers, two nymphs, a streamer and a wet fly, two dry flies, etc.
Here's how to set up this third option:
From the spool of monofilament, pull and clip off a section of it (something like 12, 24 or 36 inches). How much you clip off depends on the depth of the water you are fishing and where in the water column you suspect the fish to be feeding (i.e., you think the fish are feeding close to the bottom, up near the surface, or somewhere in-between).
Next, take your leader (with no dry fly attached to the end of it), move your fingers 8 to 10 inches up from the tippet end (the thinnest end). At this point on the leader, use a triple surgeon's knot to tie on the strand of monofilament you clipped off the spool.
After tying the triple surgeon's knot, you will have three strands coming out of the knot:
One strand will be a short piece pointing back up towards the butt-end of the leader—clip this strand off.
A second strand will also be short (6 to 8 inches). This is the "tag end" where you'll attach your dry fly.
The third strand will be longer (and thinner) and is what you'll attach your dropper to.
For a video walk-though, check out out this video.
Why go through all of this effort? This rig allows both flies to move more independently from each other which is great when fishing in moving water. This method also does not impede a fish from taking the dry fly like it could in option #1. Switching out the dry fly is easy with this option because you don't have to clip off the dropper. Eventually, the tag end where the dry fly is attached will get too short, but it's easy enough to clip off the triple surgeon's knot (and thin monofilament) and repeat the steps above.
The downsides are that it is more complicated and timely to set up and it can get tangled more easily than the other two methods. However, to minimize tangles, keep the tag end 8 inches or shorter.
Dry-Dropper Rig: Recommended Flies
When deciding what dry flies to use with a dry-dropper rig, take these tips into consideration:
Choose flies that have a lot of foam, hair (elk hair, deer hair, etc.), hackle (i.e., barbs from a rooster feather), rubber legs, dubbing (i.e., fine, fibrous material made from natural or synthetic fibers used to create the body of a fly).
These materials add buoyancy to the dry fly so it can suspend a heavier dropper underneath it.
A heavier dropper will get to depth faster and stay at-depth better in moving water.
To help the dry fly float better, apply "floatant" or "gink" to the fly before it gets wet.
When fishing calmer, shallower water, choose a dry fly and dropper that subtly land on the surface to avoid spooking fish.
For example, you can use a smaller dry fly and an unweighted egg pattern that absorbs water and slowly sinks.
If you are struggling to cast out a dry-dropper rig, you can try:
switching to smaller/lighter flies.
swapping to a leader that is shorter and/or has a thicker tippet section.
If you are still struggling to cast out a certain dry-dropper rig, like a size 6 bass popper with a weighted Woolly Bugger underneath, then it might mean your fly line does not have enough mass. If you are using something like a 4- or 5-weight, and want to cast that "popper-dropper," then you might consider buying a 6- or 7-weight line and rod for your next gear purchase.
Dry-Dropper Rig: Casting Tips
At times, anglers get frustrated when using a dry-dropper rig because it increases the odds of getting a tangle and they spend more time untangling then actually fishing. It's a genuine concern, but the advantages of using a floating and sinking fly at the same time far outweigh the headaches associated with it. Additionally, dry-dropper fishing calls out your casting flaws and encourages you to focus on developing your skills to become a more proficient, well-rounded caster.
To help advance your own casting skills, here are a couple tips to use when casting a dry-dropper rig:
Practice the Roll Cast: Pick an open spot on the water, like a pond or concrete shoreline, where there are no obstructions around you (like trees, street lamps, fences, bushes, etc.). Get close to the water and practice your roll cast. When you make this cast, really tilt the fly rod off to the side to prevent the line/leader from colliding with itself during the forward part of the cast.
Practicing the roll cast teaches you how to adjust power so a heavy dropper doesn’t snap forward too aggressively.
Roll casting naturally slows down your casting stroke, reinforcing good timing and a wider, more open loop—which is key to preventing the dropper from tangling with the dry.
Work on Casting with an Open Loop: A tight loop can cause the dropper to swing too close to the dry fly during the cast, leading to midair collisions and tangles. This is especially true if the monofilament leading to the dropper tippet is long or if the dropper is heavily weighted, as it tends to hinge around the dry fly during tight-looped presentations. To avoid this, open up your casting loop by:
Slowing down your casting stroke to allow the flies to separate and travel smoothly through the air.
Applying a slightly wider arc in your forward cast, which gives the dropper room to follow the dry fly without crossing paths.
Relaxing your wrist slightly on the forward cast, preventing excessive snap or abrupt stops that could cause the rig to kick back on itself.
Instead of overpowering the cast, slow down your acceleration and use a smooth, fluid motion to allow the rig to turn over softly.
Want to explore fly fishing beyond the basics of rigging up a dry-dropper? Check out my upcoming book, The Guide to Urban Fly Fishing, which will show you how to find exciting fishing adventures right in your own city. Whether you're brand new or experienced, you'll learn accessible strategies for catching local fish, discovering urban waters, and joining a thriving community of city-based anglers. Learn more and stay updated here.
